Extreme summertime humidity is what initially drew me into bra-making. Having grown up in a desert in southern California, I was used to dry heat. But hot summertime in North Carolina was a different thing. I would come back from shopping completely drenched in sweat, my thick molded cup bra acting like a sponge against my body.
There must be a better way.
I searched high and low for plain, unlined cotton bras and couldn’t find any. So, as a sewist, I turned to making my own. It took a few years to get the right fit, the right fabrics, and the right experience, but now I happily make my own bras and have said goodbye to store-bought molded foam cups.
Fabric choice is critical in bra-making; it makes the difference between supportive and sagging. There is a delicate balance between lightweight and boob-armor, and your cup size will largely determine just how much support is needed. I am a 32E, a small-medium (smedium?), so I don’t have to automatically jump to duoplex for maximum support. Sheer cup lining provides a good amount of support and can be used as a lining with prettier outer fabrics.
My favorite fabrics for lightweight summertime bras:
40D Tricot
Lightweight with a tiny amount of stretch, this shiny fabric has been popular for decades and can be used to make vintage-inspired bras.
Lace
Of course lace is popular year-round. But its open texture allows breathability, and paired with sheer cup lining can be very stable and supportive.
Sheer Cup Lining
Not just for lining, SCL can be used on it’s own for a beautiful sheer bra. Two layers provide maximum support.
Cotton Spandex Jersey
For stretch bralettes, natural cotton is my favorite. Paired with a mesh lining for extra support, these stretch bralettes are my favorite for light workouts.
What is your favorite fabric to use in bra-making?